finough.pro/plaquenil-shop-shipping-to-es.php It uses two pivotal levers to control both depth adjustment and lateral positioning of the blade. As the top lever is moved right, the blade inserts, when moved back to the neutral centre position, it retracts. The lower lever is used to make minor lateral adjustments. A closer look, shows a blade with holes in the blade that meshes with a pin on the adjustment mechanism.
This mechanism works quite well, as once the wing-nut locks the laver cap down, it is very difficult to accidentally move the levers. This lever-based depth adjustment mechanism is one of the few which has a patent. There are two notable aspects of the similarity. The Ohio Tool Co. The second aspect is the body itself, which has a very similar profile. It was easy for Veritas to adopt the circular Hand-y, as the Stanley patent filed in made no mention of the use of a circular depression, and nor could they considering they were not the first to use it.
Not did they patent the peculiar shape of the plane. Butchers blocks have been around for hundreds of years, so it is likely that the earliest forms of block planes were wooden, and used only by those engaged in building butcher blocks. Woodworking prior to the 15th century was extremely simple in its design, or maybe crude is a better word.
The top of a century old butchers block showing the end grain, and the dovetail joints holding the pieces together. Mortice and tenon joints were often straight through, and no attempt was made to hide wood joints. By the 18th century however, the woodworkers craft had evolved to the point where joints were hidden from sight. Tenons no longer projected through, and exposed end grain was avoided in favour of hidden joints.
This was in part due to aesthetic appeal — as furniture became more ornate, and polished, the sight of end-grain would have been considered inelegant. The return of quality craftsmanship may have been heralded by the likes of Ernest Gimson , an English furniture designer who is considered one of the more influential designers of the Arts and Crafts period of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
His designs heralded furniture based on the lines or simplicity and good proportion. The secret dovetail gave way to the through dovetail, the half tenon gave way to the through tenon. It may have been this resurgence of end-grain that facilitated the need for a tool to trim it. The need for block planes and quality tools in general waned in the s, as quality joints made way for cheaper, mass produced furniture, often using particleboard developed in the s.
It was not until the s that there was a resurgence in quality block planes. The only non-aluminum parts are the screws, cross-bars, and of course the blades. This style of handle was used only on the two earliest models of the plane, from to about Check these handles carefully for cracks over their length.
Most of the metal extensions are japanned, but the very earliest ones have a copper flashing to them, which is usually long gone and hard to find today. Be careful that the knob is proper, and not one lifted from a The 45's knob referring to the model that threads the knob onto the fence's casting in the same manner as it is on the block plane's extension handle is a hair small in its diameter and doesn't have the ring turned at its base. This plane is sometimes called the 'jack rabbet' due to its similarity to the common jack plane.
It looks identical to a conventional 5 , except that it has a rabbet mouth. The rabbet mouth is two cutouts in the plane's sides, just to the left and right of the iron. The iron extends through these cutouts and across the entire width of the sole. These planes have always been popular, with their full adjustment features identical to those found on the bench planes.
They were used for cutting large rabbets in heavy timbers for framing in the mining, carriagemaking, etc. Since the plane has a rabbet mouth, and because it was designed for heavy use, many of them have stress fractures in the casting right above the rabbet mouth, where the sides arch upward.
The earliest models have an adjustable mouth, very much like those found on the common block planes, but the entire section of the sole ahead of the iron moves. Results 1 to 15 of His designs heralded furniture based on the lines or simplicity and good proportion. It can be tightened by screwing it back into the boss, but take care not to damage its threads. With some fine abrasive paper on a flat surface, rub the edges of the sliding section back and forth a few times to remove any oxidation or burrs. UK type A looks extremely similar. Only I had the
Many of them have been repaired with a welding, which sticks out like a sore thumb, usually, but some repairs are very good and can go undetected. Another thing to check on these planes is their irons.
Because of the rabbet mouth, there isn't nearly enough space to make an iron that is as long as those found on the conventional bench planes - the sides of the plane prevent it from being as long as the others. Be sure to check that there is enough 'meat' or life left to the iron. Finding replacements that are proper to the vintage of your plane can be tough. Also, the cap iron should cover the full width of the iron along the cutting edge.
If it doesn't, it's a replacement from a normal bench planes. They cannot be removed through the mouth, and they are prevented from being removed as you normally would an iron by the sides of the plane. To remove the iron, then, you must first tip it up so that it clears the lever cap screw, then slide it to either side of the plane, and then lift the opposite side up, sort of in a twisting fashion, until one side of the iron clears the cutout in the side of the plane. Stanley recognized the problem with removing or returning the iron from or to the plane. Returning the iron to the plane needs a bit of attention so that you don't nick the edge, ruining the honing effort that took you hours to get.
To overcome this problem, Stanley redesigned the cap iron and the way it was attached to the iron. A small screw was positioned on top of the cap iron so that once removed, the iron would slip through the mouth easily. Problem solved, or so Stanley thought. They soon dropped the design for the normal method of attaching the cap iron the screw is behind the iron and is only accessible with the iron removed from the plane.
These planes, along with the fractional versions of it, never came equipped with the frog adjusting screw that's found on the bench planes. In fact, all the frog redesigns made to the bench planes never made it to this line; the bench rabbets retain their flat mating surfaces between the frog and the main casting.
However, the planes did follow the changes made to the lever cap, the adjusting screw, the knob, and the tote that were done to the bench planes see their type study for more features. As is the case with all rabbet planes, a batten is normally fastened to the work at the desired with of the rabbet. The batten then guides the plane along its path to yield a straight cut. The depth of the rabbet is normally marked with a common marking gauge. For cross grain work, the rabbet's shoulder is usually cut with a saw prior to using the plane since this plane doesn't come equipped with a spur to score the grain.
If you ever need a lever cap for this plane, or the other bench rabbets that follow, the 3 's will work. The old style 3 frog also fits the plane; i. The corrugated version of the A brute of a dude, who had taken to planing rabbets in heavy timbers as a career, certainly didn't need any 'girlie-man' corrugations in the sole to make his job any easier.
This may be one of the reasons for the scarcity of the corrugated model of this plane. This plane is identical to the 10 , except that it has a tilting tote and knob. This idea was first patented by a guy who added tilting wood to regular 10 's because he found that your knuckles got all smashed when planing large rabbets. Stanley, being the nice guys they were to their competition, decided they could do it themselves, and made their own version of it thereby making the originator of the idea a footnote in the history of planes. The tote and knob each sit atop a rounded casting that holds a coarsely knurled metallic cylinder.
A great deal of research has been dedicated to dating Stanley's bench planes over the years, with type studies established for the Bailey and Bedrock lines. Stanley was surely not lacking in its appetite for block planes, offering please check my Block Plane Chart and the Block Plane Dating page.
The usual securing rods for the tote and knob are screwed into these knurled cylinders. At the top of each securing rod is a slotted nut, which is tightened to secure the tote and knob in a slanted position, tilted from the vertical, that the user finds comfortable.
The slotted nuts are often mangled from repeated use. Often the wooden parts, especially the lower portion of the tote, are found cracked or broken off around their bases from years of use. The wooden parts are custom made for this plane, so trying to salvage a tote or a knob from a standard jack plane is pointless; original totes and knobs have a concave bottom so that they can fit over their respective convex portions of the main casting.
The same problem of stress fractures about the sides of the bottom casting, as found on the 10 , also happens with these planes. Two retractable spurs, one on each side of the plane, are used to score the wood before the iron cuts it. These spurs help to eliminate ratty edges on the rabbet, especially when working across the grain. The spurs are attached to the plane with small countersunk screws.
The screws often show signs of mangling from repeated use. The earliest models of this plane do not have these spurs. It's interesting that Stanley only offered these spurs on this plane, and not the other bench rabbet planes. Sounds good to me, at least. In any event, the spurs certainly assist the plane when cutting across the grain, making for a clean shoulder. I've seen a WWII model of this plane, where hard rubber, instead of brass, was used for the cutter's depth adjustment knob and the tote and knob are hardwood instead of rosewood. There is no nickel plating on the lever cap.
With this plane's sales being rather anemic from its introduction, it seems strange that Stanley would even make a Warlwartwotype pronounced properly as a single syllable. Perhaps Stanley kept up the production of the plane in anticipation of the building of a bridge over the river Kwai, or something?
Putting corrugations on a plane, which probably was better left on the drawing board in the first place, makes for a very rare plane. This is a tough one to find, one of the toughest of all Stanley planes, so be careful of the modern artisan's craftiness. This is sometimes called the 'smooth rabbet' since it is the same size as a 4 , however in some of Stanley's earlier propaganda this plane and the 10 are both simply called a "Carriage Maker's Rabbet". The usual problems with the 10 , and the other bench planes, are also found on this guy.
The earliest models have an adjustable mouth, very much like those found on the common block planes, but the entire section of the sole ahead of the iron moves. Adjustable mouth versions are much scarcer than the non-adjustable mouth versions, and were only offered for about the first ten years of the plane's production. The mouth is adjusted by turning the front knob, sliding the knob forward or backward, and then tightening the knob; this action moves the entire sole ahead of the iron.
The casting that receives the front knob's screw is sometimes broken so take the plane apart to inspect this. The repetitive adjustment to the mouth also puts wear and tear on the rosewood knob; many of them are split or are chipped at their bases. I've seen some of these early models with a metallic disk under the knob in an attempt to overcome the chipping that the knobs suffer; this disk appears original and is similar to the one used on the This plane always came with the lateral adjustment lever - if you see one that doesn't have one, it's likely from an earlier 3 or It never came with an adjustable mouth, to the best of my knowledge.
Because this plane is much more valuable than its non-corrugated brother, be careful of counterfeit corrugations. Hey, if you're into making, or repairing, the belting used for driving machinery, get with it, will ya? We're about to enter a new century never mind a millenium, too! But for those of you who want the frightening details, read on There is no cap iron proper on the plane, but it does have a small cap screwed to the top of the cutter, like the 9 , 25 , and do, so that the tool can take advantage of the Bailey adjustment features like those found on the common bench planes. The y-shaped adjusting fork engages a slot in the small cap.
This slot is oriented toward the heel, not the cutting edge, of the iron. It seems that those who practiced the beltmaking trade were a trifle bit spastic - many of these planes have broken adjusting forks. This problem resulted from insufficient pressure, via the lever cap, being placed on the iron, when it had a rank set. When the iron started its cut, it immediately jumped backward which then strained the adjusting fork where it makes contact with the brass depth adjustment knob, causing it to snap.
Sometimes, insufficient pressure on the iron will cause the back part of the casting to snap off or crack, where the threaded rod fits into the casting. Broken chunks off the casting are easy to spot, but to see the stress cracks takes a keener eye. Look closely about the rear of the plane. Take the iron out of the plane and look from the inside of the casting where the rod meets the casting to see if any stress cracks have developed. The plane looks very similar to the 12 , and has a turned hardwood most often maple handle that is perpendicular and parallel to the plane's sole.
The handle is screwed to the plane's main casting with two round-headed srews, each of which screws into a cast boss. Check that these bosses are not chipped or cracked. The cutter is secured in place by a lever cap that is identical to those used on the transitional wooden bench planes see their listing for a description. The entire main casting, except its sole and the machined bed, are japanned. The mouth is adjustable to satisfy the beltmaker's craving for tearout free planing, something that's mandatory when planing leather or fabric belting.
A small casting functions as the sliding section found on the common block planes. It's secured to the main casting with two round-headed screws, which when loosened, allow the sliding section to be moved forward or backward manually as the village beltsmithy so desires. Oh yeah, why a belt plane? Simple, back before 'lectricity and infernal combustible engines, water wheels and steam engines supplied the power to drive Industrial America and other joints.
These belts have their ends fastened to each other to form a loop, and it's at the juncture of the two ends that a chamfer is cut so that when the ends are fastened they maintain the same thickness as the rest of the belt. You had to ask. His first design is extremely rare. He eventually made the plane with a separate frog that is secured onto the main casting with two round-headed screws. The threaded rod, on which the brass depth adjusting screw rides, is oriented nearly vertically.
This construction proved costly to manufacture, and the planes were prone to damage, especially cracks or breaks where the screws are, so the separate frog idea was dropped around The tool was redesigned with the threaded rod fastened directly to the main casting so that it's oriented horizontally. The earliest models of this tool have a fair concave curvature to their side walls from the toe of the plane to the handle.
The later models have a sort of contorted S-shaped curvature to the side walls. This is really a strange little plane, in several ways. First, it wasn't offered in any Stanley catalog, and judging by where the very few specimens have turned up, in England, the plane wasn't sold here in USofA. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Email Address never made public.